Aqua Nueva ‘seriously poisoned' by its design, says critic

14 December 2009 by
Aqua Nueva ‘seriously poisoned' by its design, says critic

London restaurant Aqua Nueva, the first UK venture of Hong Kong-based group Aqua, has been seriously poisoned by its design, according to AA Gill.

The Sunday Times' famously acerbic food critic says that he can't imagine what induced anyone to open the Spanish restaurant atop the former Dickins & Jones building on Regent Street.

"This is the first restaurant for ages that has been seriously poisoned by its decoration," he says.

Equally unimpressed by Aqua Nueva's food offer, he adds: "I started with an egg yolk in jelly; it was like a big wine gum of pus, only not that nice. It was cheek-puffingly foul."

The Guardian's Matthew Norman finds the experience of eating at The Modern in Manchester to be the complete antithesis of comforting, with charmless décor and poorly executed and over-priced food.

Meanwhile, the Observer's Jay Rayner reports that William Drabble at Seven Park Place at the St James's hotel in Mayfair, is cooking some fabulous food but is let down by the restaurant's over-formal setting and fearful service.

"It sucks the very life out of you," he says.

For this review in full and more, see What's on the menu? To book a table, see Caterer Eats Out. Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.

Hong Kong-based restaurant group Aqua to enter the UK >>

Aqua Nueva, London >>

William Drabble to be executive chef at London's St James's hotel >>

Menuwatch - Seven Park Place by William Drabble >>

By Kerstin Kühn

E-mail your comments to Kerstin Kühn here.

If you have something to say on this story or anything else join the debate at Table Talk - Caterer's new networking forum. Go to jobs
Looking for a new job? Find your next restaurant job here with jobs

Blogs on]( Catch up with more news and gossip on all Caterer's blogs
[Newsletters For the latest hospitality news, sign up for our e-mail newsletters.
The Caterer Breakfast Briefing Email

Start the working day with The Caterer’s free breakfast briefing email

Sign Up and manage your preferences below

Check mark icon
Thank you

You have successfully signed up for the Caterer Breakfast Briefing Email and will hear from us soon!

Jacobs Media is honoured to be the recipient of the 2020 Queen's Award for Enterprise.

The highest official awards for UK businesses since being established by royal warrant in 1965. Read more.


Ad Blocker detected

We have noticed you are using an adblocker and – although we support freedom of choice – we would like to ask you to enable ads on our site. They are an important revenue source which supports free access of our website's content, especially during the COVID-19 crisis.

trade tracker pixel tracking