Aubergine at the Compleat Angler in Marlow, Buckinghamshire, serves a menu "suffering from pretension and an excess of dairy products", according to the Independent's John Walsh.
"Butter and cream sauces were everywhere, and a curious heaviness lay on the meal; it lacked a light touch, some trace of joy," Walsh says.
The London Fine Dining Group-owned restaurant, which is run by Michelin-starred chef William Drabble, is the sister venue to the iconic Aubergine in Fulham, London, where Gordon Ramsay started out in the 1990s.
Meanwhile the Guardian's Matthew Norman is impressed with Marcus Wareing at the Berkley but says "the cooking seemed less spellbinding than I remember it when Wareing was first banged up at HMP Berkeley several years ago".
The Sunday Times food critic AA Gill finds Gordon Ramsay's latest venture York & Albany slightly dull. "I must say it was all a bit of a bland jog round comfort-zone ingredients and predictable combinations," he says.
By Kerstin Kühn
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