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Few chefs would have looked to Padstow as the place to make their name in 2005, when Paul Ainsworth moved to the Cornish tourist trap to head up No 6. The town already had a culinary king in Rick Stein, whose position was so entrenched that the area had been nicknamed Padstein.
But Ainsworth has carefully built up his own empire. He has added to Michelin-starred flagship restaurant No 6 the more casual Rojano's in the Square, the six-bedroom Padstow Townhouse, cookery school Mahé and, earlier this year, the Mariners pub in Rock.
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