Tom Sellers, the 29-year-old chef-restaurateur, may be almost as well-known for his riposte to critic Fay Maschler as he is for his inventive, witty food. He takes Amanda Afiya on a whirlwind tour: from his Nottingham upbringing via Noma and the French Laundry to his London battleground, while slaying a few trolls along the way…
"I know it's a bit clichéd, but never judge a book by its cover," he offers cheekily. I nod, and carry on psychoanalysing him. "Do you not think I'm black and white?" he queries. "I've always been honest, and over the past few years I've become more honest. Everything I've said, I've meant - I want to be the best restaurateur in the world, I want to be progressive, I want to help the industry and I want to be brave enough to defend the industry when I feel it's required."
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