Matthew Norman takes a break at the Red Sea and finds it all wilfully eccentric and, at times, very good.
Giles Coren at Tom Ilic finds unpretentious top-end scoff and Terry Durack at the Independent finds newly Michelin-starred Quilon, at times, annoying.
Zoe Williams from the Telegraph encounters a pretension/tastiness tightrope to walk at Texture, the venture from ex Raymond Blanc head chef Agnar Sverrisson, with the menu high points delightful.
By Chris Druce
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