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Critic has ‘utter respect' for Conran's Boundary

15 May 2009 by
Critic has ‘utter respect' for Conran's Boundary

Metro critic Marina O'Loughlin revealed her "utter respect" for restaurateur Terence Conran after a visit to his new eaterie, Boundary.

"This gorgeous space isn't doing anything new," she writes. "With its bevelled tiles and industrial lampshades, menu of retro Brit comfort food, ketchups and brown sauces on the table, we've been here before in the likes of Canteen and S&M Cafe. But at Albion, it's just done so much better."

Sharing is the "ethos that burns as brightly as the fire in the pizza oven" at Portobello Ristorante Pizzeria in Notting Hill, according to the London Evening Standard's Fay Maschler.

Started by Andrea Ippolito and Franco Ferro, Portobello offers as one of the highlights Pizzametro - pizza by the metre - which they claim was created 40 years ago in Vico Equense, a small town on the Sorrento coast, as a means for a whole family to share a pizza.

And Maschler is a fan. "I am not a great fan of pizza, but so crisp, thin, scorched and shardy, verging on volcanic was the base, so sweet and sunny the tomatoes used in the topping that I kept eating more of what, first time round, had been ordered as a kind of side dish," she writes.

Bloomberg's Richard Vines is impressed by Fino, Sam and Eddie Hart's tapas restaurant in Charlotte Street.

"It's the quality of the produce that shines through as messing about in the kitchen is kept to a minimum and the flavors are all about the integrity of the ingredients," he writes.

For this review in full and more, see What's on the menu? To book a table, see Caterer Eats Out. Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.

Conran's Boundary ‘a very welcome restaurant', says AA Gill >>

The Boundary, London >>

Critics find Conran's new restaurant ‘dead sexy' >>

By Daniel Thomas

E-mail your comments to Daniel Thomas here.

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