After years working for Marcus Wareing, Alyn Williams has finally got his own name above the door and it was well worth the wait, says John Lanchester.
The Guardian‘s food critic is impressed by Williams's first-class cooking but adds that he doesn't like the setting of the hotel dining room.
"The food is enjoyable but the room isn't: the panelling and soft-furnishing and exposed wine coolers somehow add up to a mortuary calm," he says.
Writing in The Times, Giles Coren enjoys his starters at Kitchen Joël Antunès, the new restaurant by the former Michelin-starred French chef housed in the Embassy nightclub in Mayfair. But he has an issue with a slow-roast shoulder of lamb that arrives having suffered from being cooked quickly.
Even the scary dishes entrance the Sunday Telegraph‘s Zoe Williams at Chinese restaurant My Sichuan Restaurant in Oxford, while The Independent‘s Tracey MacLeod says the menu at Fitzbillies could be subtitled "things you really want to eat".
Finally Mayfair's Burger and Lobster is a delicious example of a restaurant that succeeds by keeping things simple, according to The Metro‘s Marina O'Loughlin.
By Kerstin Kühn
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