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Giles Coren is impressed by the modern menu at the Curlew restaurant in Bodiam

08 November 2010 by
Giles Coren is impressed by the modern menu at the Curlew restaurant in Bodiam

Giles Coren is impressed by the modern menu at the Curlew](http://www.thecurlewrestaurant.co.uk/) restaurant in Bodiam, where he has the best meal in Sussex in a long time. The Times food critic praises head chef Neil McCue's seasonal British menu which showcases astute modern techniques. "The Curlew is an excellent spot and much to be respected," Coren says.

Meanwhile The Sunday Times' AA Gill raves about the international cuisine and fabulous atmosphere at the [Dock Kitchen](http://www.dockkitchen.co.uk) in west London which he gives five out five stars. "The atmosphere provoked by wonderful cooking was light and comfortable and we left in a Pickwickian mood, replete and garrulous, at one with a happy world. Only a really good dinner can do that for you," he says.

The Guardian's John Lanchester likes Welsh chef Bryn Williams' cooking at Primrose Hill neighbourhood fixture [Odette's](http://www.odettesprimrosehill.com/) in north London.

The Observer's Jay Rayner thinks the Hunanese food at Bashan, London, is great, and will take on anyone who says otherwise, while The Sunday Telegraph's Zoe Williams says Etta's seafood restaurant in Brixton shows just how hugely the area has come on.

Writing for The Independent, John Walsh finds a lovely hybrid of Umbria and Chelsea at Italian neighbourhood restaurant [Tinello](http://www.tinello.co.uk/), while The Independent on Sunday's Katy Guest enjoys the posh fish and chips at Mark Fuller and Andy Taylor's second outpost of [Geales](http://www.geales.com/chelseagreen/), both in Chelsea.

For these reviews in full and more, see [What's on the menu?](http://www.caterersearch.com/Articles/2010/11/08/335869/What39s-on-the-Menu-A-round-up-of-the-latest-restaurant.htm) Visit [GuideGirl](http://www.caterersearch.com/blogs/guide-girl/) for the latest gossip from the fine-dining world.

<span class=""noindex"">By Kerstin Kühn

E-mail your comments to Kerstin Kühn here.

If you have something to say on this story or anything else join the debate at Table Talk - Caterer's new networking forum. Go to www.caterersearch.com/tabletalk

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