Jan Moir at Gordon Ramsay Holding's latest Murano finds excellence and elegance at the Angela Hartnett helmed venture.
The Guardian's Pascal Wyse finds Mark Hix's Hix Oyster & Chop House in London is working and certainly class.
But AA Gill at Oliver Peyton's the Lawn in South-west London comes to the conclusion that this latest venue is "not very good".
Your chance to grill the food critics
They pronounce on your restaurants, but what motivates them, and are they fully qualified to pass judgement?
We're offering you the chance to put the Observer's Jay Rayner, Nick Lander from the Financial Times and the Evening Standard's Charles Campion on the spot in our new feature ‘Ask the Critic'.
So e-mail your enquiries to firstname.lastname@example.org or write to Tom Vaughan, Caterer and Hotelkeeper, Quadrant House, The Quadrant, Sutton, Surrey, SM2 5AS - together we can grill them.
By Chris Druce
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