Jan Moir has described the makeover at Gordon Ramsay's newly relaunched Mayfair bistro Foxtrot Oscar as featuring a "dining room of a Knutsford Travelodge".
Moir also found much of the food of chef Gemma Tuley to be as bland and tepid as the new décor but the puddings to die for.
The Independent's John Walsh at the revitalised Landau restaurant in London's Langham hotel found grandeur and charming service but wasn't won over by chef Andrew Turner's menu.
And AA Gill is impressed by Urban Turban's Indian tapas but not Jamie Oliver and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's free-range chicken campaign.
By Chris Druce