Gordon Ramsay's latest version of Pétrus has been slammed by AA Gill in the Sunday Times for failing to move with the times. He didn't like the uncomfortable, overdesigned space, the indifferent food or the service which constantly interrupts conversation.
"Everything about this restaurant, this food, this service, is hopelessly passé, utterly has-been," he declares.
Daily Telegraph food critic Jasper Gerard enjoys a trip to Gloucestershire where he visits the Swan at Southrop. Here, Sebastian and Lana Snow, previously at Snows on the Green in London, are running a pub which Gerard finds tastefully furnished, welcoming and offering good value food.
Tracey MacLeod, writing in the Independent, loves everything about the Royal Oak in Paley Street, Berkshire, owned by veteran chat-show host Michael Parkinson and run by his son Nick. Beyond the unprepossessing frontage she finds a warm welcome and a menu full of enticing traditional dishes that makes the most out of carefully prepared, great British produce.
MacLeod enjoys a succession of dishes including Scotch eggs, oxtail and kidney pie and baked Alaska.
In the Observer, Jay Rayner can not contain his delight that Bruno Loubet has returned to these shores from Australia to open Bistrot Bruno Loubet at the Zetter hotel in London.
"It's what restaurants are meant to be like," he enthuses.
By Janet Harmer
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