‘Gorgeous' Galvin La Chapelle stops critic in her tracks

10 December 2009 by
‘Gorgeous' Galvin La Chapelle stops critic in her tracks

Galvin La Chapelle, the latest offering from brothers Chris and Jeff Galvin, almost stops Metro food critic Marina O'Loughlin in her tracks, in this week's London restaurant reviews.

"Good Lord," she exclaims. "This is gorgeous. Everything about this vast vaulted room, carved from the listed St Botolph's Hall, is designed to impress, from the bowler-hatted doorman and baroque, ornate entrance, to the foxed-mirror waiters' stations."

And the luxury, bistro cooking impresses her too, with a crab lasagne, charred beef, squab tagine and rhum baba all earning top marks. O'Loughlin's only gripe is the price, although she recognises the investors in the impressive building have to claw back their money some how.

In the Evening Standard, Fay Maschler checks out the cooking of Jerome Ponchelle, the newly-arrived chef at the Capital hotel from Wiltons. While she is unsure about the eccentric furnishings and off-hand service, she enjoys Ponchelle's carefully cooking.

For Guy Dimond, writing in Time Out, Dean Street Townhouse & Dining Room, serving comfort food from the 1970s, is a revelation.

His favourite dish is mince and tatties. "It's piquant, properly browned, full-flavoured, a wonderful texture, and tastes of…childhood," he enthuses.

For this review in full and more, see What's on the menu? To book a table, see Caterer Eats Out. Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.

What's on the menu? - Galvin La Chapelle >>

Launch date and team finally announced for Galvin La Chapelle >>
Jérôme Ponchelle takes head chef role at London's Capital hotel >>

By Janet Harmer

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