Galvin La Chapelle, the latest offering from brothers Chris and Jeff Galvin, almost stops Metro food critic Marina O'Loughlin in her tracks, in this week's London restaurant reviews.
"Good Lord," she exclaims. "This is gorgeous. Everything about this vast vaulted room, carved from the listed St Botolph's Hall, is designed to impress, from the bowler-hatted doorman and baroque, ornate entrance, to the foxed-mirror waiters' stations."
And the luxury, bistro cooking impresses her too, with a crab lasagne, charred beef, squab tagine and rhum baba all earning top marks. O'Loughlin's only gripe is the price, although she recognises the investors in the impressive building have to claw back their money some how.
In the Evening Standard, Fay Maschler checks out the cooking of Jerome Ponchelle, the newly-arrived chef at the Capital hotel from Wiltons. While she is unsure about the eccentric furnishings and off-hand service, she enjoys Ponchelle's carefully cooking.
For Guy Dimond, writing in Time Out, Dean Street Townhouse & Dining Room, serving comfort food from the 1970s, is a revelation.
His favourite dish is mince and tatties. "It's piquant, properly browned, full-flavoured, a wonderful texture, and tastes ofâ¦childhood," he enthuses.
By Janet Harmer
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