Jasper Gerard from the Daily Telegraph visits Hélène Darroze at the Connaught hotel in London after its £70m refurbishment.
Michelin-starred Darroze is a protégé of Alain Ducasse and although the tasting menu at £95 is clearly in credit crunch denial, Gerard says "this is hugely accomplished cooking", claiming the Connaught can lay claim now to be one of the top dozen restaurants in London.
Are You Ready To Order?, however, is unconvinced by Darroze, describing the menu as an example of "confused cooking" and claiming the service is not polished enough for the prices being charged in the restaurant.
Terry Durrack visits the Princess Victoria in the capital and finds a team more interested in winning friends than Michelin stars.
The Independent critic describes the menu as "the most desirable, pub-friendly menu you could wish for".
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