The Caterer

John Lanchester says there's nothing amateur about the Fox and Grapes gastropub

18 April 2011 by
John Lanchester says there's nothing amateur about the Fox and Grapes gastropub

John Lanchester says there's nothing amateur about the Fox and Grapes, the gastropub from Michelin-starred French chef Claude Bosi and his brother Cedric.

The Guardian's restaurant critic praises the food at the pub in Wimbledon, south London, which he says it pitched just right and not trying to push the culinary envelope. "It tries to give customers what they want, rather than lead them to try new things," he adds.

The Independent's Tracey MacLeod says that London offers many more exciting places to eat that are cheaper and more salubriously positioned than the new St John Hotel on Leicester Square. However, she adds that so much passion has gone into the place: "Fergus and Trevor have built the place they want to live in, without compromising their vision. And in the end, that's all that matters."

Meanwhile, writing in The Observer Jay Rayner says the most surprising thing about the Savoy Grill is that it isn't atrocious. He finds being told that there's a two-hour limit on his table both insulting and unnecessary and adds that overall the restaurant's in need of fine tuning.

The Sunday Times' AA Gill says the soup at Polish restaurant Daquise, London SW7, alone is worth a date giving it a full five stars, and a kiss on both cheeks, while according to Zoe Williams of the Sunday Telegraph White Swan is a wonderfully rustic Yorkshire inn that could win on charm and looks alone.

Finally The Independent on Sunday's Lisa Markwell says that despite banging tunes and achingly hip surroundings, Brunswick House Café has the potential to be much more than the SW version of a Shoreditch twat.

For these reviews in full and more, see What's on the menu?]( Visit [Guide Girl]( for the latest gossip from the fine-dining world.

By Kerstin Kühn

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