London's Cambio de Tercio serves critic his best lunch ever

28 June 2010 by
London's Cambio de Tercio serves critic his best lunch ever

Spanish restaurant Cambio de Tercio]( in London SW5 was the recipient of the most enthusiastic restaurant review of the weekend. Newly-appointed restaurant critic of the Daily Telegraph, Matthew Norman, went into raptures about everything from the welcome to a selection of wonderfully-flavoured dishes which resulted in the best lunch he has ever eaten.

Said to be Rafel Nadell's favourite restaurant when in London, Norman said Cambio de Tercio was particularly astonishing because its prices were not prohibitive.

Observer food write Jay Rayner said that, despite being a huge fan of Michel Roux Jnr, he was deeply disappointed that his new restaurant, [Roux at Parliament Square](, does not live up to expectations.

He takes particular issue with the drab décor, which is a world away from indulgent and joyful interior of Le Gavroche. While he says the food is fine, it is not nearly good enough for a restaurant charging £55 a head and having eaten at the restaurant once, he has no intention of eating there again.

In the Sunday Times, Camilla Long, standing in for AA Gill, tucks into a tasty meal of traditional pub grub "with a strong streak of twittoria" at the [Swan at Sothrop](, Gloucestershire, a pub run by the former owners of Snows on the Green in Hammersmith. All is well until a waitress descends on the table with a J cloth and a squirter, and wipes it down again and again.

Mike Higgins, writing in the *Independent on Sunday*[Look Mum No Hands!]( - which aims to serve decent food and drink for London cyclists. Set up by Matt Harper, Lewin Chalkley and Sam Humpheson, the venue provides a place to lock up your bike, friendly service and some decent simple food.

For this review in full and more, see [What's on the menu?]( To book a table, see [Caterer Eats Out.]( Visit [Guide Girl]( for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.

[Giaconda Dining Room is Time Out's Best New Restaurant >>](

[Roux at Parliament Square, London >>](

[Review of the reviews >>](

By Janet Harmer

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