Lyonnais chef Claude Bosi takes us through the creation of a dish of Herefordshire snails from his two-Michelin-starred restaurant, Hibiscus, in Mayfair. Michael Raffael reports
It's not a new branch of farming. The Romans did it, cosseting the gastropods as reverently as any farmer fattening geese for foie gras: "Snails were confined upon islands, so that they could not escape, and were fattened on milk, wine must and spelt. When they became so fat that they could not get back into their shells," explains the Cambridge World History of Food, "they were fried in oil."
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