Shay Cooper's take on a classic kedgeree has breathed new life into the Anglo-Indian favourite. Michael Raffael reports
No two kedgeree recipes are alike. Cooks have tinkered with this Anglo-Indian dish for the past 200 years, and even the mighty Escoffier included a cadgery de saumon (salmon kedgeree) in his Guide Culinaire. His version, a pilaf with flaked fish, curried béchamel and hard-boiled eggs, could pass muster today.
Shay Cooper's take at London's The Goring hotel draws on techniques both old and current to create a kedgeree far removed from the dish that would have graced the Downton Abbey breakfast table. His vialone nano rice (neither patna nor basmati) belongs to the risotto school of cookery. He references the haddock that most cooks think of as a key ingredient with a haddock-based stock. For fish he opts for smoked eel and a raw scallop topping. Instead of a sauce or cream, he prefers a curry-flavoured oil and compound butter.
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