Brat has captured the imagination of customers and bloggers alike with its theatrical wood-fired cooking. Neil Gerrard finds out what makes chef Tomos Parry tick
The first time Tomos Parry tried turbot, cooked over charcoal at Elkano restaurant in Getaria in northern Spain, he knew it was something special.
"There are moments in your life when you eat something and you say to yourself: ‘That's it. That's the flavour,'" he recalls. "It's simply a whole turbot cooked over fire, but in order to achieve that, people have been cooking this piece of fish for hundreds of years and learning to understand it."
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