The Caterer

Opera Tavern serves tapas so good you want to hijack other people's orders, says Zoe Williams

28 March 2011 by
Opera Tavern serves tapas so good you want to hijack other people's orders, says Zoe Williams

Opera Tavern, the latest restaurant venture by the Salt Yard Group, serves tapas so good you want to hijack other people's orders, says Zoe Williams.

The Sunday Telegraph‘s food critic is utterly impressed with the food served at the new restaurant in London's Covent Garden, sister restaurant to Dehesa and Salt Yard.

"There was so much going on in every mouthful, and all the flavours were so individual, so characterful, it was like a hip-hop dance-off. Made of food," she enthuses.

Writing in The Sunday Times, AA Gill says the food at Brawn is honest and unpretentious but at the same time lacking in originality. He comments: "It's hard to fault the essence of an honest commitment to good things in a good room, but this meat-heavy menu, with familiar dip-in dishes from summer-holiday destinations and fashionable cookbooks, with its nod to Victorian heartiness, is growing as ubiquitous as Pizza Hut."

Meanwhile The Guardian‘s John Lanchester finds that once you get past the terrible name of Yak Yeti Yak in Bath and the less than alluring location beneath a hair salon, you'll find some really rather wonderful Nepalese cooking.

The Independent‘s John Walsh is very impressed with the seasonal and locally sourced food at the Harrow at Little Bedwyn near Marlborough, Wiltshire, while Giles Coren enjoys the cooking and the wine at Cassis, a Provençal restaurant in Kensington and the latest venture from Marlon Abela's MARC group.

Finally The Observer‘s Jay Rayner says that despite its aristocratic heritage, the otherwise lovely Devonshire Arms in Beeley, Derbyshire, makes a right royal mess of dinner.

For these reviews in full and more, see What's on the menu?]( Visit [Guide Girl]( for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.

By Kerstin Kühn

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