Bjorn van der Horst is a brilliant chef but his five-star cooking at the Eastside Inn is let down by over-controlled service, says Marina O'Loughlin.
The Metro's food critic finds the food at the east London restaurant every bit as good as that served in Michelin-starred restaurants in France and Spain.
"So why only three stars? It's the place. And the attitude," she says.
"Van der Horst might be a genius chef but he's a clenched restaurateur. The room is hushed, the atmosphere stilted. Staff have been drilled to bother us to distraction."
Fay Maschler of the Evening Standard believes every neighbourhood would benefit from a restaurant like Le Provence, the relaunched John McClements restaurant in Barnes, south west London.
Time Out's Sarah Guy is eager to go back to the Restaurant at St Paul's Cathedral, where she enjoyed good food at reasonable prices.
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By Kerstin Kühn
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