Pierre Koffmann still has it in him, says critic
The Times' restaurant critic Giles Coren has described Pierre Koffmann's pop-up restaurant on the roof of Selfridges as "how eating in a great restaurant used to taste."
Coren, who tried out the food at a preview of the temporary reincarnation of former three-Michelin-starred London restaurant La Tante Claire, was impressed by Koffmann's signature dish of pig's trotters.
"My God, they were fine," writes Coren. "The thick, wobbling, amber tube of skin, the richly textured paste of the glands stuffed inside, the dark, sticky jus, the titter of weeny vegetables, slung alongside for giggles."
Elsewhere the Observer's Jay Rayner found that More in London SE1 was a good restaurant that needs to cut its prices. He said: "It plays as a local neighbourhood bistro, but while breakfast and lunch options are cheaper, the £90 price tag on an evening meal for two is over the odds."
For these reviews in full and more, see What's on the menu? Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.
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By Rosie Birkett
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