Relaunched Criterion yet to find its feet, say critics

16 July 2009 by
Relaunched Criterion yet to find its feet, say critics

Iconic London restaurant the Criterion on Piccadilly, which has been relaunched under the ownership of Georgian entrepreneur Vasily Sopromadze, has some way to go to live up to its original reputation, food critics say.

Fay Maschler of the London Evening Standard says it may take a while for the new owners to find their feet.

"The menu will not help," she says. "Introduced by the now commonplace and tiresome guff about sourcing only the most special ingredients …] it seems to have been composed by a committee anxious to be all things to all men."

Meanwhile Metro food critic Marina O'Loughlin is more impressed with the Criterion, suggesting that despite hiccups she would happily recommend it to anyone looking for a showstopping room and a reasonable dinner.

For these reviews in full and more, see What's on the menu? To book a table and view the latest restaurant deals visit Caterer Eats Out. Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.

Marco Pierre White-branded Criterion restaurant sold >>

Marco casts eye over criterion >>

By Kerstin Kühn

E-mail your comments to Kerstin Kühn here.

Caterersearch.com jobs
Looking for a new job? Find your next restaurant job here with Caterersearch.com jobs

[Blogs on Caterersearch.com](http://www.caterersearch.com/blogs) Catch up with more news and gossip on all Caterer's blogs
[Newsletters For the latest hospitality news, sign up for our e-mail newsletters.
The Caterer Breakfast Briefing Email

Start the working day with The Caterer’s free breakfast briefing email

Sign Up and manage your preferences below

Check mark icon
Thank you

You have successfully signed up for the Caterer Breakfast Briefing Email and will hear from us soon!

Jacobs Media is honoured to be the recipient of the 2020 Queen's Award for Enterprise.

The highest official awards for UK businesses since being established by royal warrant in 1965. Read more.

close

Ad Blocker detected

We have noticed you are using an adblocker and – although we support freedom of choice – we would like to ask you to enable ads on our site. They are an important revenue source which supports free access of our website's content, especially during the COVID-19 crisis.

trade tracker pixel tracking