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Restaurant Nathan Outlaw in Fowey is ‘worth the journey', says critic

01 September 2009 by
Restaurant Nathan Outlaw in Fowey is ‘worth the journey', says critic

"Perfectly judged, beautifully cooked and hugely satisfying". That is how Matthew Ford of the Guardian finds the food at Restaurant Nathan Outlaw in the Marina Villa Hotel, Fowey, Cornwall.

Despite Outlaw's image as an ‘individualistic cook', Fort describes his dishes as classical "with all poncing about subservient to flavour."

The Independent's Tracey MacLeod gives the food at the Nut Tree Inn in Murcott, Oxfordshire three out of five stars. She says "for every highlight, there was an element that was just a little bit off" referring to a "wonderful" chicken liver parfait accompanied by burnt toasted brioche.

MacLeod goes on to commend the high standard of puddings and describes the service is described as efficient and "super-friendly".

Jasper Gerard for the Telegraph declares the "brilliant French cooking of brilliant British food" at La Bécasse in Ludlow, Shropshire to be one of the most technically accomplished and sensual lunches he has had in ages.

Choosing to put Bristol-born chef Will Holland through his "gastronomic paces", Gerard opts for the 'Gourmand' menu which consists of six courses. High praise for each one comes thick and fast, concluding with an "orgasmic" dark chocolate tart.

Sojo in Oxford is one of the "best two or three oriental restaurants in England" according to the Times' Giles Coren where he says he had the best Chinese meal in years. He is impressed by the broad menu and great skill in execution of the Shanghai and Sichuan cuisine and says Sojo is "electric".

For this review in full and more, see What's on the menu? Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.

Nathan Outlaw unphased by potential sale of Fowey hotel >>

Ritz dining room still "one of the most beautiful" in London, says critic >>

Conran's Lutyens restaurant "another French classic", says critic >>

Janie Stamford

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