The Observer's food critic says that, considering the price, he expected more than just professional service.
"Was Rhodes there? Of course not, and nor did I expect him to be. But I did want to feel his presence. I didn't, and that was the problem," he says.
Meanwhile the Independent's John Walsh enjoys the Kensington Wine Rooms but complains that the opportunity to experiment with so many wines sends his bill sky high.
The Times's Giles Coren finds good Lebanese food in abundance at Chez Marcelle in West London, while the Guardian's Matthew Norman says Karachi in Bradford deserves an epic poem for turning out great food at incredibly low prices, decade after decade.
For these reviews in full and more, see What's on the menu? To book a table and view the latest restaurant deals, visit Caterer Eats Out. Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.
By Kerstin Kühn
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