Soho House's Pizza East a hit with critic
Pizza East in Shoreditch is the recipient of the most enthusiastic London restaurant review this week. Writing in MetroNick Jones of Soho House - for looking the part with its distressed paintwork, exposed brick and statement lampshades.
But it is when she gets to the food that she really goes overboard, declaring everything on the menu both enticing to look at and delicious to eat. O'Loughlin's pizza is a particular hit.
"Mine is a pizza bianca without tomato and with veal meatballs, cream, lemon, sage; not bland, but subtle, luxurious, a thing of real loveliness," she says. "Thin-crust fans might not like it, nor will the wine on tap slapped into little tumblers appeal to wine snobs, but it's all doing it for me."
Meanwhile, reviews of the new business from Chris and Jeff Galvin - which incorporates a dining room (Galvin La Chappelle), an all day eaterie called Café de Luxe and a connecting aperitivo bar - receives mixed reviews.
Fay Maschler in the Evening Standard likes the setting of the operation in the late 19th-century St Botolph's Hall in Spitalfields. "Conversion from a derelict Grade II-listed site to a huge, high and handsome restaurant with a cathedral interior took time and doubtless masses of dosh," she says.
However, when it comes to the food, she is disappointed not to find something different to the menu found at the Galvin brothers' Baker Street restaurant.
More enthusiastic for the Galvins' food offering is Guy Dimond of Time Out, who heralds the desserts in particular as having the wow factor. He does suggest, though, that the £24.50 fixed price menu is a better bet than the expensive Á la carte.
For this review in full and more, see What's on the menu? To book a table, see Caterer Eats Out. Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.
Launch date and team finally announced for Galvin La Chapelle >>
By Janet Harmer
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