Stick to the chargrilled meat at Barbecoa, says critic Zoe Williams

08 August 2011 by
Stick to the chargrilled meat at Barbecoa, says critic Zoe Williams

Stick to the chargrilled meat at Barbecoa, Jamie Oliver's City restaurant, and you can't go wrong, says Zoe Williams.

The Sunday Telegraph's food critic is impressed with the meat served at the restaurant at London's One New Change development, a joint venture between Oliver and US barbecue enthusiast Adam Perry-Lang.

"The puddings were frankly disastrous," Williams says. "But you could always just skip dessert, and then there's a good chance that you would really enjoy it."

The Times‘ Giles Coren finds "mimsy and ill-seasoned" food at Casa Batavia in Kensington, the first UK venture from Italian chef Nicola Batavia.

He says: "According to the menu one of our starters won the "Best Dish Award 2010 - Italy", which allows me to reveal that they are giving out prizes somewhere for a poached egg served on out-of-season asparagus without salt. And there was none on the table. Like kissing a man without a moustache, as Marilyn Monroe would have said."

Writing in the Observer, Jay Rayner says that Montpellier Chapter's hotel restaurant]( in Cheltenham, which is overseen by consultant chef Simon Hopkinson, shows an outpost can be a success, while the Daily Telegraph's Matthew Norman feels lucky to spend lunch at the [Wheatsheaf]( restaurant in Bath.

The Independent‘s John Walsh finds food lacking in interest or passion at the [Chiswell Street Dining Rooms](, the latest venture from Ed and Tom Martin.

In London, the Metro‘s Marina O'Loughlin loves everything about [Spuntino](, the new restaurant from Polpo duo Russell Normand and Richard Beatty, while the Evening Standard‘s Fay Maschler finds part-time restaurant the [Bonnie & Wild]( hit and miss.

For these reviews in full and more, see [What's on the menu?]( Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine-dining world.

By Kerstin Kühn

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