The Sunday Times' Rod Liddle fears, from looks alone on arrival, that the Vineyard at Stockcross in Newbury, Berkshire, is the sort of place "I'm going to want to punch the sommelier".
On making it into the restaurant proper, Liddle avoids resorting to violence and instead concedes that the Vineyard is in fact "very good", as is the service, although the prices are somewhat harsh on the wallet.
By Chris Druce
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