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What's on the Menu? – A round-up of the latest restaurant reviews

11 June 2009 by

Bloomberg, 6 June
Richard Vines suggests you go to The Palm London, 1 Pont Street, London SW1, for a taste of authentic Americana, but in gastronomic terms it is no more than a steak-house chain

The Palm London - review in full >>
Evening Standard, 4 June
Rowan Moore enjoys the comforting food at Rosie's Deli Café, 14e Market Row, Brixton Market, London SW9, despite the winsome environment

Rosie's Deli Café is cute and busy-looking but neater and sprucer than most of its neighbours. There are more hearts, and postcards, and packages of paprika and torrone daintily arranged. The place is tiny, with a few tables inside and a few more out under the glass roof. The menu is written up on a blackboard and offers "generous salads" such as capocollo and aubergine, or fennel, salami and artichoke hearts. There are taleggio and tomato ciabattas, and, for breakfast, sausage sandwiches and mackerel pÁ¢té on toast. For afters there is cake and Bakewell tart, which escapes its usual fate of death-by-industrial-jam.
Rosie's Deli Café - review in full >>

Metro, 10 June
Andy Lynes finds authentic, but widely inconsistent, Malaysian food at Rasa Sayang, 5 Macclesfield Street, London W1

There is nothing like a properly made Malaysian curry puff - and the three, grease sodden lumps of batter hiding a bland potato heavy filling at Rasa Sayang were definitely nothing like properly made curry puffs. What should have been a delicious cross between a samosa and a Cornish pasty with a spiced minced meat and potato mixture encased in light, shallow-fried pastry was instead an inedible mess…a mixed platter of chicken and beef skewers were beautifully chargrilled, the spicy peanut dipping sauce had real complexity of flavour and just the right amount of chilli heat. Roti canai was a warm, buttery and flaky delight. Char kway teow - stir-fried flat noodles with seafood - should be one of the cornerstones of any restaurant serving food from the Strait of Malacca. Here, they'd done an amazing job of extracting all flavour from the dish.
Rasa Sayang - review in full >>

Time Out, 11 June
Guy Dimond wants more of More, 104 Tooley Street, London SE1, but not as a rolled-out concept

More's a little place, quite loud with shouty City types, and also sweltering on the warm evening we visited. Don't let this put you off. The modern look of the place carries over to the plate; if you've been to good all-day cafés in Sydney or San Francisco, the crossover of meals and cuisine types may seem familiar… We visited in the evening (dinner menu: after 6.30pm), when the open kitchen was a flurry of activity led by head chef Beatrice Ferrante. Sitting at the bar is a great spectator activity, especially with such visually arresting dishes. One starter resembled a variation on bouillabaisse, a seafood stock with wine strongly flavoured with saffron that contained baby squid, shards of fennel and cut leeks. The strong flavours of this dish contrasted with the delicacy of a stack of crab meat with roasted tomatoes and peach flesh, garnished with peppery watercress.
More - review in full >>

By Janet Harmer

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