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What's on the Menu? – A round-up of the latest restaurant reviews

24 September 2009 by
What's on the Menu? – A round-up of the latest restaurant reviews

Evening Standard, 17 September
Liz Hoggard recommends Yalla Yalla at 1 Green's Court, London W1, with its remarkably cheap and tasty menu, as a great venue for a casual lunch or pre-theatre supper

Yalla Yalla - review in full >>
Metro, 23 September
Marina O'Loughlin feels the newly opened Green's Restaurant and Oyster Bar at 14 Cornhill, London EC3, is out-of-step with the times

This cavernous new restaurant and bar is huge; intimidatingly vast. It's framed with iron bars and marble counting tables, intriguing - if not entirely cosy - items that reference the building's past as the Lloyds banking hall…On the ground floor there's a horseshoe-shaped bar and crustacea counter. Acres of marble echo spookily. A pianist noodles away in a corner but his notes are getting lost in the loftiness. Punters are few, sober and middle-aged…Rosti is promised with soused herrings, a perfect sweet-sour-melting trio of fish, but what arrives is a tiara of wafer-thin potato shards which add little to the dish. Light, fresh battered plaice comes with minted pea purée - of course! - and square blocks of Jenga-ed chips. Wasn't that kind of nonsense outlawed in the 1990s? There's nothing wrong with stout British dishes and imposing surroundings: our semi-circular windows look across to the Royal Exchange, where Sir Tel Conran has used an even more imposing space to create something that actually works. (Dinner for two with wine, water and tip, about £120. Rating: 2/5)).
Green's Restaurant & Oyster Bar - review in full >>

Time Out, 10 September
Guy Dimond says 23 Romilly Street, London W1, offers a quirky charm and a mish-mash menu of retro dinner party dishes and comfort food

Sausage and mash comprised dense, meaty bangers flavoured with garlic and fennel, with a caraway-flavoured mustard. A slightly more challenging test for the kitchen was a tart of Gruyère cheese with caramelised onion, which had good, thin pastry. A pork chop was nicely cooked, served with clams and bacon; the accompanying cube of dauphinoise potatoes was nicely pert. Other dishes were a bit so-so; a salad of baby spinach, cherry tomato, and avocado is the sort of thing you could easily throw together at home, except that in this case, the pancetta had been home-cured by the chef. Puds include crème brÁ»lée or a French cheeseboard. The wine list is limited. (Meal for two, with wine and service, around £65. Rating: 3/5)
23 Romilly Street - review in full >>

By Janet Harmer

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