The chef with no name 24 January 2020 How James Cochran lost the rights to his own name, and his triumphant comeback with Islington restaurant 12:51
In this week's issue... The chef with no name How James Cochran lost the rights to his own name, and his triumphant comeback with Islington restaurant 12:51
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What's on the menu? – A round-up of the latest restaurant reviews

14 April 2008
What's on the menu? – A round-up of the latest restaurant reviews

The Guardian, 12 April
Matthew Norman visits Goldfish, London NW3

So disturbing is the precedent for today's review that, but for the desire to avoid setting an even more alarming one by leaving this space blank for readers' notes, I would refuse to write it at all. My last professional trip to the London suburb regarded by leading satirists as this newspaper's spiritual home did not conclude happily. The meal was excellent and the review, published elsewhere, a minor rave. The one small drawback - and how we all relish the dark comic potential of the long magazine lead time - was that the spookily well-named New End closed down the day before my review appeared.

The Independent, 12 April
Tracey MacLeod visits The Greenhouse, London W1

The frenetic round of openings on the London restaurant scene can make eating out feel a bit like speed-dating; all those sexy new arrivals tend to distract from the charms of the tried and trusted candidate who's been waiting in the wings. Then no sooner have you started to get acquainted when the flashy newcomer lets you down, or disappears off the scene altogether. That's when an old-stager like The Greenhouse comes into its own, stepping in like Colonel Brandon to offer solid staying power and low-key charm. In my promiscuous quest for thrills, I'd somehow overlooked this debonair old smoothie, which has been feeding and cosseting the Mayfair set since 1977.
The Greenhouse - Independent review in full >>

The Sunday Telegraph, 13 April
Zoe Williams visits Bord'eaux, London W1

It was only two-thirds of the way through that I realised where Bord'eaux reminded me of. ‘It's Bordeaux, you dummkopf,' I berated myself. It looks exactly like the Café du Port on the quai Deschamps; it's uncanny, as if they've brought the tiles and the brass fitments over piece by piece. You look out of the window expecting to see the Garonne, and instead you're on Park Lane. Is there such a thing as too authentic? I don't know - I'll tell you what the food's like, then you tell me. I ordered deliberately for Bordeauxishness, by the way. C ordered as if he had a tapeworm, but we'll worry about that another time. Alors, I started with the eggs poached in regional red wine (£8.50).
Bord'eaux - Sunday Telegraph review in full >>

The Observer, 13 April
Jay Rayner visits Martha & Vincent, Ilkley, West Yorkshire

Martha & Vincent is a lovely restaurant in so many ways. The front-of-house staff are charming. They let us change tables, and willingly pointed out the dishes from the evening menu that were available when we expressed disappointment with the shortness of the lunch menu. The white room, with the graphic shrubbery motif across the bar and elsewhere, is elegant. The selection of wines by the glass is encouraging. The regular mentions of hardy root vegetables and squashes on dish descriptions suggest a laudable interest in big flavours over fiddly, lacklustre ingredients.
Martha & Vincent - Observer review in full >>
Jan Moir visits Apsleys, The Lanesborough hotel, London SW1

You wait all year to dine in a gilded hotel dining room, then two come along at once. Last week it was all chandeliers and lobster at the Ritz. This week it's wagons roll half a mile westwards for clam soup and cannoli at Apsleys, the new Italian restaurant in the Lanesborough hotel. I say new. What I actually mean, of course, is refurbed. Out goes the old Conservatory restaurant at the back of the hotel, including the cheese plants and ferns, which have been chopped up and repackaged as green salads for the Radisson hotel chain. In comes Apsleys, a nova Italian restaurant named after Apsley House, the former residence of the first Duke of Wellington, which is situated opposite the hotel.
The Lanesborough - review in full >>

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