The Guardian, 19 April
Matthew Norman visits The Horn of Plenty, Gulworthy, Devon
Everyone who adores restaurants must have their opinion about what makes eating out a pleasure or otherwise, but after many years of doing it (semi) professionally, I know only three things I would present as certain fact. 1) If you order genitals, do it because you like the taste and/or texture, but never to show off. Little impresses a hot date less than the vision of a quarter-chewed sheep's gonad making a hurried, inelegant journey from mouth to napkin.
The Times, 19 April 2008
Giles Coren visits The Bildeston Crown, Bildeston, Suffolk
God, I must be the worst restaurant critic in the world. Last week I travelled all the way to Aldeburgh on the Suffolk coast to try out the best fish and chip shop in England and arrived five minutes after it had closed. This week I shall top that by celebrating a fantastic pub restaurant on the basis of the food I didn't eat there. When I check out of a hotel on a Sunday morning after a weekend in the country, I like to get on the road immediately. I hate all that palaver of leaving your bags at reception, then idling away the time till lunch stealing things from charity shops and throwing rocks at the old people coming out of church, eating and drinking too much, and then falling asleep at the wheel and killing nine people.
The Bildeston Crown - review in full >>
The Independent on Sunday, 20 April
Terry Durack visits D.Sum2, London EC4
Has the steam gone out of dim sum as we know it? When the high street hijacks your favourite way of eating - be it pizza, burger, sandwiches or sushi - and turns it into a chain, you know it's all over. On the up side, you get uniformity, consistency and rigorous hygiene. On the downside, you get uniformity, consistency and rigorous hygiene. Dim sum is the latest to join the chain-gang.
D.Sum2 - review in full >>
The Observer, 20 April
Jay Rayner visits Cruse 9, London N1
Let me remind you of the rules. Never eat in a restaurant on a boat. Dinner can't be good when the floor is at risk of tilting and the air smells of septic bilge. Never eat in a revolving restaurant. The view, and its passing, will always be more important than the food. Finally, never eat in a fusion restaurant - unless it is owned by Peter Gordon. He is the one chef, first at the Sugar Club, later at Providores, who has popularised a whole culinary genre only he is good at. In the Nineties, fusion became a euphemism for overambitious, generally crap chefs attempting to introduce bits of the world to each other which had no business sharing plate space.
Cruse 9 - review in full >>
Jan Moir visits Saf, London EC2A
Saf London is a new gourmet raw vegan restaurant, not a geographical area south of the river Thames, as described in the local patois. There are other Safs, in Germany and Turkey and while Munich-Istanbul-Shoreditch may not quite have the same cachet as Paris-London-New York, it suits Saf, which is quirky and unique. This branch is situated in the depths of groovy east London, on the apex of two of the area's most fashionable streets. Put it this way, I swear I spot supermodel Agyness Deyn walking past the window as I sip my botanical cocktail and read the wheat, meat and dairy free menu. It's surely a moment which condenses the very definition of urban now in our capital city.
Saf - areyoureadytoorder.co.uk review in full >>
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