Romy Gill at the Pem to open at Conrad London St James

The Pem at Conrad London St James is to reopen as Romy Gill at the Pem this autumn, showcasing regional Indian cuisine.

Gill takes over from chef Sally Abé, who supported the launch of the suffragette-inspired restaurant in July 2021, which was known for its all-female senior team.

Abé remained at the helm of the Pem, which takes its name from suffragette Emily Wilding Davison, until March 2025.

She was also consultant chef for the hotel as a whole, while Gill will only be responsible for the Pem.

The evolution of the Pem coincides with Gill’s return to restaurant kitchens for the first time in six years.

Gill, who was awarded an MBE for services to the hospitality industry in 2016, operated Romy’s Kitchen in Thornbury, south Gloucestershire for six years until its closure in 2019.

At the Pem, the chef will showcase the flavours of Punjab, Bengal, Kerala and Rajasthan, while also paying homage to the women who taught her how to cook.

Guests can expect rich curries, smoky grills and slow-braised dishes that take inspiration from Gill’s extensive travels across India.

The Caterer was told a tasting menu will also be available, though this is still being finalised.

Gill said: “I want the Pem to feel lively and full of energy. The kind of restaurant where people stay longer than they planned, order another dish because the table next to them had it, and leave already thinking about when they’re coming back. That’s how I love to eat, and that’s what I want to create here.”

Bernadette Gilligan, general manager of Conrad London St James, added: “The Pem has always evolved through the people leading it, and each chapter has brought something different to the restaurant. Romy takes it somewhere we’ve never been before. We knew very quickly that she was the right person for this next chapter.”

Gill is also the author of three cookbooks: Zaika, On the Himalayan Trail and India: Recipes from Home.

The Conrad London St James opened in 2014 as the UK’s first Conrad hotel. In 2021, Hilton invested £1.75m into the construction of the Pem, the Blue Boar pub, an afternoon tea lounge and a cocktail bar.