Thierry Voisin

Throughout the 1990s Les Crayères, in the Champagne capital of Reims, was identified with its chef-patron Gérard Boyer. Early in 2003, he retired and passed the reins to Thierry Voisin, who had been overseeing his kitchen for the past six years. The change, if anything, has meant there has been no change.
Voisin arrived chez Boyer at the end of the 1980s as a first commis, rose quickly to sous chef and was told that if he stayed the course, he could expect to become head chef.

 

Unlike other provincial three-star restaurants, Les Crayères doesn't play the celebrity game. Voisin isn't promoted as a star. Nor does he want to be. He's the leader of a team that includes chefs de partie who have worked there as long as he has and who will probably remain with him for the rest of their careers.

 

If that gives the impression of a traditional, hidebound operation, then perhaps it is - but in the best possible sense. The skill levels and the consistency are remarkable, exactly what the famous grandes marques Champagne houses expect from a restaurant where they entertain prestige customers.

 

He first revived the lièvre à la royale for a dinner given by the Club des Cents, France's most famous gastronomic association, in 1998. It has been on his autumn menus ever since. His approach to a classic shows that his style may be retro in its inspiration, but is forward-looking in its execution. He relies on precisely controlled temperatures and cooking times, accurate portioning, sous vide know-how and personal touches that lift a famous old favourite to a new level.