It’s lunchtime in Deptford and there’s a sizeable crowd enjoying the summer warmth outside Mama’s Jerk. You can smell why. The unmistakable aroma is emanating from a grill at the back of the restaurant, which is situated in an old railway arch. On offer are rotis, burgers, salads, ‘Biriyardis’ – their version of a biryani – and vegetarian bean cake, plus drinks and a few seats. It’s simple, but it works.
Jamaican food, particularly jerk chicken, has long been a part of life in south London, as well as other cities throughout the UK. It’s delicious and keenly priced. But now, this food is beginning to make a mark on high streets beyond its heartlands in the guise of brands such as Turtle Bay and the Rum Shack.
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