Book review: Three: Acid, Texture, Contrast by Selin Kiazim
In this book, Selin Kiazim of modern Turkish-Cypriot restaurant Oklava in London offers her readers no less than "the essential foundations to redefine everyday cooking" – the three building blocks of acid, texture and contrast that "turn good dishes into knockout dishes".
Mimicking the title, Three is divided into three sections. Part one is know-how, including sourcing ingredients, the importance of tasting, and basics such as herbs, oils and vinegars. It also discusses the essential foundations of acid (to brighten and balance flavours), texture (adding mouthfeel and interest, with, for example, croutons or cured meat), and contrast (such as the cool crunch of a winter fattoush salad against the sweet and sour warmth of tamarind-glazed short ribs).
In the second part come ideas and inspirations: short recipes for glazes, toppings, spice mixes, marinades, condiments, dressings and pickles that can add acid, texture and contrast to any number of preparations. They are also referred back to in the full recipes that form part three, so that a dish of smoked haddock and leeks is served with citrus dressing and sherry caramel, the recipes for which appear in part two, as does the alternative serving suggestion of spiced mayonnaise.
The structure of the book encourages the reader to think about how dishes are built and how easily elements can be swapped in and out while maintaining those essentials of acid, texture and contrast. That said, you will almost certainly want to cook Kiazim's original versions. Who could resist steamed aubergines with beef scratchings and chilli dressing; verjus cabbage with kapuska (a fragrant Turkish beef and cabbage stew) and sea vegetables, or seared bavette with smoked anchovy and gem lettuce with miso and crispy shallots?
Kiazim's distinctive culinary voice is enough to make Three an enticing prospect. The fact that she is generous enough to want to help readers develop their own style makes it a must for both young chefs and those who are more established but in search of inspiration.
Three: Acid, Texture, Contrast by Selin Kiazim (Hardie Grant £25)
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