You never know what you’re going to get at James Knappett’s Kitchen Table, where a daily changing menu showcases impeccable produce – in this case, squid, cooked delicately and served with zingy Meyer lemon jam. Michael Raffael reports
Think of the giant squid in 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea and it's easy to imagine weaving tentacles and one outsize eye attached to a tapering, tubular body.
Think of squid as seafood and chances are most people will have a mental image of battered and fried rubbery rings. It's a blinkered view. Except in a perfect Venetian fritto misto, the cooking technique does the poor cephalopod few favours. The Japanese do better: they grill it or eat it as raw sashimi. Or go to the Basque country for a bowl of chipirones - finger-length 'squidlings' stewed in their ink - or the stuffed version in Italy.
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