Menuwatch: Catch at the Old Fishmarket, Weymouth

Opened last June, it's the brainchild of "serial investor in marine-related businesses" Sean Copper, who brought in chef and co-partner Mike Naidoo to oversee the kitchen.

New Forest-born Naidoo, 35, trained in physiotherapy before making the switch to cooking, crediting his time under Damian Brown at the Chesil Rectory in Winchester as his biggest influence, along with the five years spent with Jason Atherton's restaurants, most recently at Pollen Street Social. This is his first head chef position.

Naidoo boasts a full brigade, now standing at seven chefs, who work through an average of 200 covers a week in the 46-seat first-floor restaurant, plus a further 30 seats on the outdoor terrace, plus the dishes sold at the fast-food hatch for customers heading to the beach.

The narrow open kitchen assures interaction between chefs and guests, many of whom like to talk about the daily catch, the strong sustainability focus of huge interest. The two fishing boats (with bass licences) owned by the business and tied up right outside, only use lines, nets and pots. "This used to be where they stored the crab and lobster," says Naidoo. "But we've moved it to a storage unit in Portland. We're lucky, we have lots of capacity to hold the fishermen's catch."

Naidoo describes his food as "simple and clean", though it hides plenty of technique and polished presentation. The lobster quiche is a case in point – the coral is used in the pastry, a bisque is made from the shells for the custard, and the tail is cooked on the plancha and served sliced on top, with sea purslane and Dorset-grown microgreens as garnish.

The scallop ceviche is also a picture, and one of the most popular dishes, which he doesn't dare take off the menu. Slices of raw scallop, hand-dived off Lulworth Banks, are topped with thin discs of Granny Smith, an apple gel, dill oil and a yuzu dressing. Other signature mains include Lyme Bay-caught turbot with brassicas, almond and sherry; and steamed plaice with morels, asparagus and Parmesan.

Desserts are down to Naidoo's pastry chef partner, Slovenia-born Tija Klincov, who worked with him at Pollen Street Social, and include dishes with similarly spare descriptions hiding clever technique, such as ‘rhubarb and custard' and ‘milk chocolate, hazelnut'.

It costs £50 for two courses, £60 for three, or £75 for the tasting menu. The average spend is £79, including booze. On the terrace, and ordered to go from the hatch, dishes include half a grilled lobster for £15, a crab sandwich for £10 and 12 oysters (also their own, grown in nearby Portland) for £22.

Has the lack of fine dining options in the area hampered his access to quality local ingredients? "Not at all," he says, leading me around the corner to meet the folks at Sicilian micro-bakery Peppina, who produce Catch's sourdough bread. Add to that superior butter and other dairy products from Craig's Farm up the road – and his neighbour's goose eggs, served on toasted milk bread, with a generous shaving of Périgord truffles.

Even though Catch is firmly a fish restaurant, there is always meat on the menu, says Naidoo, sourced from Dorset Game Larder and Lion's Hill Farm. "If you've got a table of five there is always someone who prefers meat and I didn't want to sell ourselves short or alienate people – why risk losing five diners? We also offer vegetarian and vegan dishes," he explains.

Is a Michelin star an ambition? Says Naidoo: "I'd be lying if I said it's not. Though I don't think the restaurant necessarily needs it. We're busy, so if I can continue that, and keep 20-odd people including myself in a job, then that's the most important thing right now."

1 Custom House Quay, Weymouth DT4 8BE

**www.catchattheoldfishmarket.com