Menuwatch: Restaurant Elis, London

He says: "I thought it could be a good name that would pay the tribute to two incredible women: my mother and Elis. I wanted it to be a more sharing, easy concept, where people can just go in and have a bowl of pasta or a glass of wine."

Differentiation from Da Terra was key for Cagali from the outset, and the two restaurants share suppliers but little else.

However, the launch of Elis in the same location has provided further opportunities to reduce wastage by pooling produce and cuts of meat between the two sites. It also offers Cagali's brigade a further avenue for growth. The Elis kitchen, for example, is headed by Joe Holness, who used to be sous chef of Da Terra.

The menu at Elis is diverse, covering charcuterie, crudo, burrata and freshly made pasta as well as larger dishes such as Iberico pork with black beans and chimichurri. The influences are taken from Cagali's upbringing in Brazil, his father's Italian heritage, and the time he spent working in both Italy and Spain after leaving his homeland at the age of 20.

The chef says: "It's kind of an Italian brasserie with Brazilian influences. In Brazil, food is influenced by a lot of different cultures, including Italian and French. We wanted good charcuterie, amazing bread, some Brazilian dishes like the cod fritters – which are Portuguese – and a fish crudo with tucupi. We also have classic dishes like beef tartare but made using veal and bone marrow, and simpler dishes like your nonna can cook."

The approach is apparent from the start of the meal in the bread selection, which incorporates homemade seeded sourdough, focaccia and pão de queijo – a small delightfully moreish Brazilian cheese bread. Brazilian influences are also at the forefront in a dish of monkfish tail with a black tucupi glaze served with haricot or black beans cooked in fish stock and served with okra. The glaze is a reduction of fermented yellow cassava root (sometimes called manioc), commonly found growing in the wild in Brazil. The cassava is fermented and then juiced before being left to rest so the liquid separates from the starch. The liquid – tucupi – is then boiled and pasteurised due to its acidic quality, and reduced to a molasses-type consistency.

Cagali uses the tucupi to glaze the monkfish tail, which is cooked for about half an hour at 45°C before being pan fried to add colour and caramelisation. The chef says: "The black tucupi used for the monkfish provides a savoury, umami flavour, with great acidity and sweetness as well."

The bolinhos de bacalhau (Portuguese cod fritters) served with dende aïoli have been popular since the restaurant opened its doors in October, although Cagali says they do surprise some guests. "It's not a croquette people expect – they're much meatier. But if you go to Brazil, that's what you get."

The fritters are made using salted cod that has been soaked in water for three days before being mixed with a little potato, then fried and served alongside a classic aïoli made using dende oil, made from the fruit of the dendezeiro tree. Elis always has a minimum of three pasta dishes on the menu. At the time of this interview they include a duck ragù pappardelle and a carabineros prawn linguine.

Porchetta tonnata is also a staple, made from pork belly which is brined and then rolled and steamed before being sliced thinly. It is served with a sauce made from tuna, anchovies, capers and caper brine, egg yolks and oil and garnished with crispy fried capers, mustard cress and extra virgin olive oil. In forming the menu, Cagali has taken influences from his life and put them together in dishes that will satisfy as well as excite. He explains: "It's about trying to think of things you would happily eat every day. It's not about culture; it is about me and the team running the place. Just think of home: it's home-cooking flavour-wise, and then I add the little twist."

Small plates

• Porchetta tonnato £12
• Panzanella salad £8
• Crudo di arctic charr, tucupi dressing £10
• Battuta di vitello, marrow, batata palha £11
• Churros pecorino £7

Pasta, fish and meat

• Short rib pappardelle £17
• Monkfish tail, black tucupi glaze, haricot beans £36
• Iberico pork, black beans, chimichurri £38
• Picanha skewer, palm hearts, kale £32

Town Hall hotel, 8 Patriot Square, London E2 9NF www.restaurantelis.co.uk