Michelin is unpredictable, a law unto itself. A mysterious arbiter of taste, which each year has the industry on tenterhooks waiting to see on who its spotlight will settle.
Musings on its mercurial nature preceded many of the predictions sent to us ahead of next week's ceremony, which promises fireworks despite being held virtually once again. Indeed, Michelin has upped the trailing of its annual revelations by releasing monthly updates to its listings, sparking intrigue as to which of those named will go on be adorned with stars and Bib Gourmands.
Many will be wondering if any jackets embroidered with three Michelin stars will be sent out. For years no one managed to join the ranks of the Fat Duck, Restaurant Gordan Ramsay, Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester and, of course, the Waterside Inn; but in 2020 Sketch Lecture House and Library was the surprise addition to the upper echelon, followed last year by Hélène Darroze at the Connaught and Core by Clare Smyth.
This year Claude Bosi at Bibendum in London and Simon Rogan's L'Enclume in Cumbria were both repeatedly cited as possible recipients of the highest award by those who shared their thoughts with The Caterer.
Many are also hoping that 2022 will be the year that the Ritz London, headed by John Williams, finally receives a second star.
Restaurant critic Richard Vines said: "I cannot think of a better restaurant in the UK for classic French cooking. I've had worse at a famous three-star in Paris, and the consistency of John's high standards over the years is remarkable."
The predictions for restaurants receiving their first star are varied in both cuisine and geographical locations, with many hoping Michelin will be similarly diverse in where it sprinkles its stars. Restaurant critic Eileen Twum is hoping to see more stars distributed to restaurants serving cuisines from outside Europe and Asia; with modern African restaurant Chishuru in Brixton, London, topping her wish list. Meanwhile, Thom Hetherington, chief executive of Holden Media and Northern Restaurant and Bar, would like to see Manchester get its first two-star restaurant, while also hoping those elusive three stars will make their way to the north of the country.
The release of the Michelin Guide has always captivated the culinary world but, following the two most difficult years many operators will be able to remember, even more restaurateurs may be on the edge of their seats next week.
Peter Sanchez-Iglesias, chef-patron of Casamia, Decimo and Paco Tapas, said: "Chefs get giddy when they hear the word Michelin; they get nervous, they get palpitations. You never know what Michelin are going to do and I wish I had a crystal ball to understand. If you get a star it can change your restaurant and Michelin does give you a voice. Without a star Casamia or Paco Tapas might not be as successful as they are now, but at the same time it's not necessary for every chef. Not having a star doesn't mean you're not a great chef or that you don't have a great restaurant."
THE PREDICTIONS
Judy Joo, chef and author
"I recently discovered Junsei in Marylebone for yakitori and think it's fantastic. The skewers are delicious and there's always such a great vibe to the place – it really reminds me of Birdland in Tokyo."
Hrishikesh Desai, executive chef, the Gilpin, Windermere
"Three stars for Claude Bosi at Bibendum and L'Enclume; two stars for Ynyshir in Eglwys Fach in Wales and one star for Rothay Manor."
Peter Sanchez-Iglesias, Casamia, Decimo and Paco Tapas
"Gareth Ward at Ynyshir – he should be a two-star chef already, it's almost like they're playing games with him to see how good he can get. His puts his life and soul and every single bit of his body into that place."
Richard Vines, restaurant critic, Koffmann & Vines
"Michelin is highly unpredictable, so this is a wish list, not predictions. Launceston Place is overdue for a star. Ben Murphy is a talented chef and he has upped his game in the past year. I'd also like to see stars for Bibi, Fallow, the Frog, the Grill at the Dorchester, Kol, Mere, Maison Francois, Otto's and Pali Hill. John Williams at the Ritz London deserves a second star and Claude Bosi at Bibendum a third. It would be good if Jamavar won back its star. Outside London, Crockers (Henley); the Vineyard at Stockcross (Berkshire) and Pompette (Oxford) are all deserving."
Stuart Gillies, the Bank House in Chislehurst and Number Eight, Sevenoaks
"My best, most recent experience was at Luca in St John Street in London's Clerkenwell and they are certainly deserving of a star. Excellent, well-executed classic cooking with a twist… intense flavours and a light touch, delicious."
Gareth Ward, Ynyshir, Eglwys Fach, Wales
"Three stars for Claude Bosi at Bibendum; two stars for Carters of Moseley in Birmingham, the Man Behind the Curtain in Leeds, Alchemilla in Nottingham, Tony Parkin at the Tudor Room in Egham and us... One star for Jöro and Akoko, both in London. But who knows, really Michelin is a law unto themselves."
Vivek Singh, chef-patron, Cinnamon Club
"After following Adam Handling and Asma Khan's careers for years and having eaten at both of their restaurants recently, I think both will be recognised with a star. Adam Handling's food at the Frog in London is delicate, creative and memorable, while Asma has really pushed the boundaries since relocating Darjeeling Express to Covent Garden. They would both be very deserving of this accolade. I also think Sameer Taneja, executive chef of Benares in Mayfair, will retain his star."
Galton Blackiston, chef-patron, Morston Hall, Holt, Norfolk
"Three stars for L'Enclume; two stars at least for Chapter One in Orpington; one star for Meadowsweet in Holt and Restaurant 22 in Cambridge."
Thom Hetherington, chief executive, Holden Media and Northern Restaurant and Bar
"Keeping my thoughts focused on the North there are some real talents that must be in Michelin's thinking. York's Le Couchon Aveugle is superb – on a recent visit a scallop dish, roasted in the shell with sea urchin butter, was exceptional – and it feels like it has kicked on. Equally, Jöro in Sheffield is exciting, technical and delicious, and positively fizzes with ambition. Also the Moorcock Inn in Sowerby Bridge is a glorious and fiercely contemporary gastropub, underpinned with fine cooking.
"The Barn at Moor Hall must surely be in line for a first star. Michelin often looks favourably on offshoots to existing starred operations, but chef Nathan Cornwell has made the Barn a destination in its own right, with immaculate cooking framed in an beautiful but accessible setting. It will also be interesting to see if Mana in Manchester will set a new precedent by becoming the first two-starred restaurant my city has ever seen, and the only ‘core city' two-star in the country.
"If Michelin is in the mood to shake-up the status quo, then surely it is time, finally, to award three stars outside of the south-east-London-Bray axis. Having eaten in three stars in the UK and abroad, I am slightly at a loss as to what more Moor Hall and L'Enclume could do to elevate themselves to that level. I can understand that Michelin will be looking for impeccable consistency at the highest level, but surely both restaurants have now proven themselves worthy?"
Tom Swaby, National Chef of the Year 2022
"Three stars for L'Enclume and Claude Bosi at Bibendum. Two stars for the Ritz London, Paul Ainsworth at Number 6 in Padstow and Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen in Dublin. In London, one star for Luke Selby's Evelyn's Table, Ruth Hansom's Princess of Shoreditch, Tom Booton at the Grill at the Dorchester, Ormer Mayfair by Sofian Msetfi, and a Bib Gourmand for Robert Taylor at Tallow in Tunbridge Wells."
Eileen Twum, restaurant critic
"I think Pine in Northumberland should get some well-deserved recognition. I spent a lot of the pandemic with chef Ian and Vanessa, the head sommelier so I have experienced first-hand the cleverness of their food and their thoughtfulness when it comes to wine pairing.
"The restaurant most likely to be missed is Chishuru, which I think is the best restaurant in London and possibly in the country at the moment. I feel Michelin is allergic to African cuisine unless it is a ‘fusion' restaurant like Ikoyi (which is a wonderful restaurant in its own right). I would say that Chishuru's food has the precision of storytelling and layered delicateness of flavour and texture at the same standard as Core by Clare Smyth. Really. But of course, Chishuru is not a white tablecloth restaurant and didn't have a £200,000 interior design budget.
"Maybe we will see some truly representative restaurants that are not heavily European- or Japanese-biased."
Chris Galvin, Galvin Restaurants
"John Williams to get two stars at the Ritz London would be special. I would also love to see Brawn in east London receive a star – Ed Wilson cooks in a marvellous style, working closely with each season's produce. Every plate is harmonious and effortless, which belies the hard work and passion Ed and his team put into their cooking. His menus have the knack of making you want to order everything, the food is super-consistent and, in my view, it's one of the best restaurants in the country"
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