A niche for noodles

Fast food Japanese-style has hit the North-west in the shape of the Not Sushi noodle bar in Liverpool. Situated just down from the city's Chinatown area, the restaurant can be found in the elegant Modo bar complex and, 10 months on from its opening, it has forged its own version of west/east fusion food - exclusive of sushi.

Managing director Robert Duce explains: "We've tried authentic Japanese food, but received some negative feedback. Now we've westernised the dishes while keeping a predominantly Japanese flavour, and we've found a niche."

Accountant-turned-restaurateur Duce is responsible for the seasonally changing menu, along with wife Claire and David Cook, head chef and owner of Liverpool's successful Bechers Brook restaurant. Noodle novices are provided with handy English translations for each dish on the menu, which is divided into three sections - side and main dishes (totalling 32), and desserts. These make up a 16-strong selection of exotic ice-creams and sorbets, such as lychee and mango papaya, alongside old favourites such as chocolate fudge cake, all between £2.95 and £3.50.

Main choices include dishes based on beef, chicken or seafood, served with either ramen (Chinese-style noodles), soba (wholemeal noodles made from buckwheat flour) or udon (thick white noodles made from wheat flour) in a price range of £5.50-£6.45. For non-noodlers, there is also a selection of rice dishes in the same price range.

Side dishes include gyozas (deep-fried dumplings), in three forms: yasai (vegetable), crammed with carrot, cabbage, coriander, ginger and garlic (£3.95); chicken (£3.95); or ebi (prawns), which cost £4.50. All are served with a chilli dipping sauce, pink pickled ginger, daikon and a mix of cucumber and red pepper. Tempura vegetable and seafood also appear, along with a choice of yakitori - skewers of chargrilled vegetables or chicken.

Customers from eight to 80 years of age are spending £10-£11 per head inclusive of wine (both sake and a traditional plum wine are available - the former at £2 for 100ml, the latter at £2 per glass).

Seafood noodles are popular in the 70-seat restaurant: customers choose their noodles (ramen, udon or soba) and these are cooked with vegetables in a dashi (fish) stock. King prawns, naruto (Japanese fish cake), plaice, salmon and squid are then added and served with beansprouts, spring onions and wakame (seaweed), accompanied by lime.

For non-saki lovers there are a number of beers, including Heineken and Stella Artois (£1.90 and £2.10 per pint respectively). There is also, appropriately, the Japanese Kirin beer (£2.10), plus Japanese green tea, China tea or coffee (all £1).

Not Sushi also operates a Light Lunch menu which offers half-portions of selected dishes - a side order, main dish and dessert clocks in at £5.50. A set price, two-course Before Eight menu has recently been launched for £7.

Currently the restaurant is serving 600 covers a week and Duce plans a second venue, either in Leeds or Manchester, in the next few months.

Not Sushi, 23/25 Fleet Street, Liverpool.Tel: 0151-709 8894. Fax: 01704 834933