Andrew Sangster's beer column

Pubs, like all other forms of retailing, are subject to the whims of fashion. But some operators have found it more profitable to flow against the tide.

By sticking to a proven formula, even if it is unfashionable, businesses have won and retained customers, boosting sales and generating handsome profits.

The story of real ale is a classic example of the rewards that can be reaped for the obstinate. Thanks to the activities of the Campaign for Real Ale (Camra), real beer went from virtual extinction to become one of today's fastest growing product sectors.

Before going any further, it's worth clarifying what real ale is - unpasteurised top fermented beer which is also known as cask ale. It is called "real" because of the living yeast cells in the liquid. Pasteurised bitters, such as John Bull, or stouts, such as Guinness, are known as keg beers.

Camra has fought long and hard for its definition of real ale to be established and have the hand-pull beer engine recognised as its trademark. It is currently in full campaigning mode to ensure the new nitrogen keg beers, such as Caffrey's, do not attempt to pass themselves off as real ale.

But why the fuss? I can express it no better than Guardian journalist Richard Boston, who speaks on a one-hour cassette, called The Story So Far 1971-1996, celebrating Camra's 25th birthday.

This recording, made by BBC Radio's John Brice, has Boston recounting why he fought for real beer in the early 1970s. "I'm not a passionate beer drinker but I can tell the difference between keg and cask," he says.

Boston was not a Camra activist, in fact he was frequently rude about its members. He spoke for all its supporters and many other drinkers, however, in resenting the imposition of keg beer.

Some brewers capitalised on this resentment, notably London-based Young's. Chairman John Young wrote in his company's annual report as early as 1964 that the brewery had deliberately abstained from supplying keg beer to its tied houses. "When Camra came along our beer had the most tremendous boost," explains Young on the tape.

Young's Bitter is the beer of the month. It used to be known as Ordinary and although the marketing department put a stop to that, John Young has ensured the men in suits have never touched the beer itself. It retains the same balance of malt and hop character as when John Young first refused to contemplate keg back in the 1960s.

l Beer of the month: Young's Bitter, 3.7% abv. Available in casks of nine gallons, 18 gallons and 36 gallons at £52.98, £105.96 and £211.91 respectively, all plus VAT. Tel: 0181-875 7000.

l The Story So Far 1971-1996 costs £5.99 from Camra. Tel: 01727 867 201.