berkeley square cafe

Caf‚s that aren't really caf‚s are catching on in London. Not only is there the much trumpeted Boxwood Caf‚ at the Berkeley hotel (see Caterer, 15 May 2003, page 20), but half a mile down the road is the less written about, but still undeniably fine-dining, Berkeley Square Caf‚.

Its chef-proprietor, 37-year-old Steven Black, has retained a few tables outside the glass-fronted, 50-seat main dining room but that's its only reference to traditional caf‚ values. Step inside the two-tiered property and you'll find contemporary minimalism - soft mauves, chocolates and mulberry and the odd splash of an acid-yellow banquette.

The white linen, Bernadaud crockery and bespoke glass plates (by Art for Glass, tel: 020 7272 9341) betray Black's culinary ambitions. He has worked with French chef Michel Gu‚rard and at Germany's Michelin-rated Historische Schlo§mhle and, most recently, at Shaftesbury Avenue's One-Seven-Nine restaurant, so it's no surprise the food he's serving is a notch above what you'd expect from a caf‚.

"We want to be a fine-dining restaurant but with a very relaxed atmosphere - just get away from stuffiness," Black says.

He bought the restaurant in February with his wife, Merete, who is in charge of eight front-of-house staff. It opened at the start of April - "before Gordon", Black points out. A competitive price structure helps create that relaxed atmosphere: the Blacks charge £32.50 for two courses, £37.50 for three, and £42.40 for a seven-course tasting menu (with amuse).

A big hit from Black's opening menu has been a scallop starter, in which succulent, fresh roast scallops are served with a slice of seared foie gras, tasty girolles and a light, fresh pea and mint pur‚e. "I bought 70 scallops the other day and within two days I only had three portions," he says.

Fish, generally, has gone down well, particularly grilled fillet of sea bass, braised cod and steamed halibut. So, as the weather hots up, Black has his five chefs hard at work cooking new seafood dishes to tempt diners. Among them are red mullet; salmon with a satisfyingly fresh-tasting cucumber-based sauce; John Dory with risotto (a basil and goats' cheese one, for a change); tuna tartare; and lobster served with a cod brandade, baby leek and chervil dressing.

Like the scallops, the lobster dish has gone down well. Ten lobsters, poached in a stock including lemon, star anise, white peppercorns and bay leaves, disappeared in one day.

When it comes to puds, Black has found the old faithful, chocolate, walks off with the honours - be it a square quenelle of mousse coated in Valrhona chocolate and served with lime and candied-ginger sorbets or a hot chocolate fondant with pistachio ice-cream.

To lighten up for summer, he has taken the former off the menu and tweaked the latter. The fondant is now served with a more classic milk and vanilla ice-cream. And fresh berry dishes hold sway. There's a "tasting of strawberries" in which the classic English fruit is served as an assiette featuring a sorbet, a mousse, a wild strawberry jelly, a strawberry salad and a banana and strawberry milkshake.

Black's tempting food has already brought plenty of punters through the door - 50 to 60 at lunchtime and about 40 in the evening. And if he builds on the Berkeley Square Cafe's early success, it's clear he's going to give the other chefs in the neighbourhood something to think about. n

Berkeley Square Caf‚, 7 Davies Street, Mayfair, London W1K 3DD

Tel: 020 7629 6993 www.berkeleysquarecafe.com

By Joanna Wood

BOXTEXT: Chef's Cheat

Don't refresh lobsters after poaching - it toughens the flesh. Poach for three minutes, until just undercooked. Cool down naturally, then just warm up before serving. This way, the flesh will be much more relaxed and succulent.

BOXHEAD: what's on the menu

BOXTEXT: Two courses £32.50; three courses £37.50

n Pan-fried fillet of red mullet, new potato salad, tapenade

n Guinea fowl, shallot and foie gras terrine

n Watercress soup with summer truffles

n Steamed wild salmon with asparagus, cucumber and sevruga caviar sauce

n Braised leg of rabbit, rabbit loin with Serrano ham, wild mushrooms, peas and braised fennel

n Fillet and braised cheek of veal with girolles and Swiss chard pur‚e

n Raspberry and chocolate sable with yogurt sorbet

n Warm plum strudel with plum sauce, honey and lavender ice-cream

n Assiette of ice-cream and sorbets