Host of the town
Spencer Hewitt's early culinary adventures involved creating concoctions using Jelly Tots, Rice Krispies and Angel Delight. Twenty years on, aged 26, Hewitt has more mature tastes, to the benefit of those dining at Host restaurant and bar in Bishop's Stortford, Hertfordshire.
When the 40-seat restaurant, owned by Simon Cottam and Spencer Martin, opened in July 2000, it caused quite a stir in the busy commuter town. Its open, modern design, based on the curves of a cruise liner, is different from any other eaterie in the town centre, and the modern, eclectic style of the food is in sharp contrast to the burger bars and pizza restaurants that dominate the area.
Hewitt changes the menu every two weeks, both to maintain interest from the local customer base and to make the job more challenging for his brigade of two part-time and two full-time chefs.
"It means we have to keep the menu fairly small, but this makes it possible for us to prepare everything from fresh," he says.
The menu generally comprises five starters, six main courses and six desserts. One of the most popular starters, among the average of 65 covers served a night, is a dish of pan-fried chorizo sausages with a poached egg (£4.95). And the more luxurious pâté de foie gras - exceptionally good value at £5.95 - always sells well.
One constant main course is fillet steak, although the garnish and accompaniments are changed with each new menu. Recent variations have included the 8oz steak being served with beetroot gratin dauphinoise, Savoy cabbage, horseradish cream and Madeira jus (£14.95), and with roast field mushrooms, beef tomato and sautéd potatoes with a béarnaise sauce (£14.95).
A broad mix of customers - ranging from young trendies to their elderly relatives - spend an average of £30 per head in the restaurant, and Hewitt offers a variety of flavours to please every palate. A roast French duck breast with gratin dauphinoise, Savoy cabbage and dry sherry jus (£12.50) is included for those who like to see something familiar on the menu, as is a dish of noisettes of lamb with tempura vegetables and coriander salsa (£12.95).
For the more adventurous, there are dishes such as a sautéd fillet of monkfish rolled in Indian spices with basmati rice, Bombay potatoes, tomato chilli salsa, yogurt raita and mini poppadoms (£13.50), the inspiration for which came from a trip to India.
Desserts are just as varied. A steamed golden syrup sponge with fresh vanilla custard (£4.50) is popular among the traditionalists, while an iced chocolate parfait with aniseed poached pear and bitter chocolate sauce (£5.50) has a more niche appeal.
Host restaurant and bar, 4 The Corn Exchange, Market Square, Bishop's Stortford, Hertfordshire CM23 3UU. Tel: 01279 657000. Web site: www.hostrestaurant.co.uk
