Rural treat

Overseeing the launch of the Wellesley restaurant at Bindon Country House Hotel since it opened earlier this summer, head chef Patrick Robert is determined to find the right sous to join him and his commis in their passion for experimenting with new dishes.

Finding its feet, the hotel and restaurant is already appealing to the usual mix of weekday conference business and weekend weddings and short-break holidaymakers.

The 35-cover Somerset country house in Langford Budville, near Wellington, has a chapel that has been converted into a mini-conference centre in the style of an orangery, with peacocks strutting around outside. Boasting a wedding licence, the building is also already booked up for more than 35 weddings.

Brittany-born Robert is keen on the small-volume wedding market that he says fits in neatly with the hotel and restaurant. "When there are just 35-40 guests, we can really look after them."

Robert plans to change the menu seasonally in tune with the availability of appropriate produce. He also admits to becoming bored with the same dishes. That's also why he wants a sous chef brimming with suggestions. He feeds off new input.

With seven acres of grounds waiting to be exploited, Robert has his eye on Bindon's ancient walled garden which is a redundant compost and peacock-roosting area. He sees potential for a giant herb and vegetable patch. Herbs are part of Robert's passion. Describing his style as "an integration of classical French cooking skills with imaginative modern British cookery using the finest of fresh, local produce", they appear across his repertoire.

On the table d'hôte menu, one glimpses grilled smoked salmon with a herb velouté, a tower of salmon wrapped in thyme breadcrumbs with a saffron sauce, while on the à la carte, there are dill infusions, a coriander and lime vinaigrette, a chive velouté and basil creamed potato.

Menu items such as pear and coriander soufflé with a pear sauce and coriander ice (£6.95) are evidence of Robert's experimenting. "I love playing with flavours. The strong smell and taste of coriander overlays the blander flavour of pear. Raspberry and basil go together well, too, because the basil breaks down the raspberry's sharpness.

"You can do it with strongly-flavoured meat dishes like venison, which works well with something like lavender sauce, or there's thyme and olive sauce with lamb."

He picks out the starter of terrine of duck foie gras, wild mushroom and confit of lamb on a toasted brioche with a light orange muscat jelly (£9.95) as one of his favourite dishes. His preferred main dish is the duo of venison with a tartlet of baby vegetables, roast potato and served with a game jus (£20.45).

And because it is only four miles from the market town of Wellington, and in cattle country, beef Wellington has a permanent place on the list.

The Wellesley restaurant at Bindon Country House Hotel, Langford Budville, Wellington, Somerset TA21 ORU. Tel: 01823 400070.