The Pass lacks ‘wow' but offers calm, says critic

The Pass restaurant in West Sussex serves a menu lacking in wow factor, but being located inside the kitchen it offers views into possibly the least volatile cooking environment in Britain, according to AA Gill.

 

The Sunday Times food critic finds the food somewhat inconsistent but praises the vegetarian menu and is amazed at the level of quietness among the chefs.

 

"Matt Gillan, the otherwise affable and chatty head chef, seems to communicate with his brigade entirely through telepathy," he says. "Maybe the inside of his head is a frothing mire of expletives."

 

Meanwhile, the Independent's Tracey MacLeod is distinctly underwhelmed by Osteria Dell'Angolo, Claudio Pulze's latest venture in Westminster.

 

"Osteria Dell'Angolo has the kind of bland, complacent atmosphere you get in movies just before Jason Bourne comes bursting in feet-first through the window," she says.

 

The Observer's Jay Rayner is impressed with the £12.50 set lunch menu at the Royal Well Tavern in Cheltenham.

 

He says: "This is a menu which leaves you feeling satisfied by dint of carbs - the toast, the mash, the pastry - but which also delivers on all the essentials."

 

For this review in full and more, see What's on the menu? To book a table, see Caterer Eats Out. Visit Guide Girl for the latest gossip from the fine dining world.

 

The Pass >>
Osteria Dell'Angolo >>

 

Claudio Pulze to open new Italian restaurant >>

 

Royal Well Tavern >>

 

By Kerstin Kühn

 

E-mail your comments to Kerstin Kühn here.

 

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