Order Up!: A peek behind the curtain of London’s independent operators

For those of us who have wondered what it takes to create some of our favourite restaurant dishes, the Order Up! cookbook is here to demystify the process.

 

Payments supplier Square has collated a series of recipes from London’s achingly cool, independent restaurant and café operators to give a sneak peek as to how the magic happens.

 

And the book doesn’t just shine a light on the capital’s contemporary food scene, it actively helps the hospitality community, as 50% of the proceeds go to the restaurant where the book is purchased, and the other half is donated to Hospitality Action.

 

The book is categorised by geography, with sections focusing on sites in the north, east, south and west of the city, and there’s a map at the start of each segment so you can go and seek out the lip-smacking meals profiled.

 

Not only do you get instructions on how to make each dish, you also get a fully-rounded view of each venue, with passages on the founders, their ethos and the inspirations behind their businesses, all alongside photos from front and back of house to demonstrate the inner workings.

 

For instance, in north London, Atreka Cameron’s All Nations Vegan House pays homage to her Jamaican grandmother, with the profiled coconut creamy oyster mushroom stew demonstrating how Cameron brings a traditional coconut-based recipe up to date by adding oyster mushrooms, warm spices and sweet potato.

 

One of the east London representatives, World Famous Gordos, has brought a slice of New York pizza to Hackney. Founder Jess Elias’ Pepp Pizza with Everything recipe gives away the restaurant’s signature dough trade secrets (a touch of diastatic malt powder or brown sugar), with a shake of Everything Bagel seasoning providing the pièce de résistance to the topping.

 

Heading south, cult bakery Bread Ahead reveals how to make its Chelsea buns and recreate the soft centre, spiced swirl and syrupy glaze – don’t forget to brush the dough with melted butter before baking.

 

Meanwhile, in the West End, Honey & Co’s founders Sarit Packer and Itamar Srulovich bring the sweetness with their buttery, crumbly vanilla cheesecake with blackberry and blueberry topping. The dark berries, crushed with lemon and spooned on just before serving, give a balancing zip to the sour cream and vanilla filling.

 

With every purchase helping to keep the lights on in someone’s kitchen, this is a loving snapshot of London’s diverse restaurant scene.

 

Order Up by Square (Ebury, Penguin Random House, £15). Make Shōri’s Nasu Dengaku Don from the book

 

Photography © Marcus Monaghan-Jones (Good Brew Inc)