'I’ve always had empathy for people behind the scenes': Critic William Sitwell on opening the White Hart

The Telegraph restaurant critic William Sitwell has opened an Italian restaurant within the White Hart in Wiveliscombe, Somerset.

The opening comes roughly four months after the former editor of Waitrose Food first announced plans to relaunch the historic 17th century coaching inn alongside Jon Coward and his wife Millie, who operate around six pubs in west Somerset, including the Carew Arms in Crowcombe.

Sitwell had originally intended the restaurant to be called Casa Wivey but has since opted to keep the original name of the building: the White Hart.

According to the relaunched White Hart website, diners can expect a “simple, great-value Italian menu” served with the likes of Black Bear and Exmoor ales, Guinness, Peroni and “a cracking wine list”.

Dishes now include beef ragu pappardelle, aubergine parmigiana and Exmoor venison cut of the day and are prepared by chef Dom Hewitt, an old friend of Sitwell’s.

The Telegraph food critic confirmed to The Caterer that all 16 bedrooms at the White Hart are currently open, and have a “1970s charm” about them.

Over the coming months, these rooms will be upgraded to feature furniture from British interiors brand OKA, as will all the public areas of the hotel.

Sitwell said he tries to be on the floor for a “minimum of four days a week” at the pub and restaurant and can also be seen serving drinks behind the bar.

He described opening day in his Telegraph column as “Fawlty Towers meets Saving Private Ryan because just as I thought everything was working fine, the heavens opened, water was pouring in through the ceiling, the sous chef who we were expecting to work with us didn’t turn up, and the oven didn’t work”.

Sitwell is also now much more aware of the industry’s challenges – not only as a restaurant critic but also as a fully-fledged hospitality operator.

“I have to live this extraordinary Jekyll and Hyde existence where, you know, parts of the week I’m reviewing and parts of the week I’m serving. I’ve always had empathy and sympathy for people behind the scenes, but it’s a different kettle of fish when you really do feel their pain. It just means that I come to the table as a critic with an even deeper knowledge,” he told The Caterer.

He has also echoed the concerns of many hospitality business owners who are facing yet more cost pressures following last month’s Budget.

He said: “I find it absolutely extraordinary that the government are imposing these tariffs and taxes on hospitality and somehow not realising that they are literally destroying it day in, day out. Hospitality has been in crisis for some years now and the nerve or the ignorance of Rachel Reeves to say in her Budget speech that she’s welcoming a new golden era of hospitality whilst through the back door she’s literally destroying the business. It is a completely indescribable situation.

“A busy restaurant does not equal a successful restaurant on the bottom line. That’s one of the things that I’m discovering. You have to be rammed to break even. It’s insane.”

The White Hart is currently performing strongly, fully booked on a Monday evening in the lead-up to Christmas.

Sitwell revealed plans to host more events such as big Sunday lunches and inviting famous chefs to cook at the restaurant in due course.