Chilled red wine – a refreshing change

I always love to see traditional wine ideals challenged – the kind that make both the producer and the consumer pause to consider and approach wine in a different way. One of the most interesting areas of rethinking its temperature, so it’s great to see more and more winemakers and sommeliers playing with the idea of how it can shape a wine’s character. Rather than following rigid rules, many take it bottle by bottle and follow the industry insider tip of taking your whites out of the fridge half an hour before serving – and then putting your reds in.

Yet this idea is not just reserved for professionals. Chilled red wine has become a trend, with many guests replacing their requests for orange wine in favour of something red, juicy and chilled. Just because the summer brings with the need for something refreshing, that doesn’t mean wine drinkers have to compromise on structure, tannin or acidity – by chilling a bottle of red, many can receive exactly that. It also highlights the shift in guest perspectives and how they are open to interacting with wine in a more dynamic and personal way. 

Many winemakers suggest serving wine at a much cooler 12°C-14°C (rather than the old-school 18°C). Many lighter grape styles, such as Gamay, Pinot Noir, Trousseau, Mencía or Frappato, have thinner skins, lower tannins and more gently perfumed fruit, which lend themselves perfectly to spending time on ice. Even slightly thicker-skinned varietals, such as Cabernet Franc and Zweigelt, can be chilled too. The right temperature will lift the aromatics, highlight a crunchier texture and heighten acidity levels. Look also to wines that are a blend of red and white grapes, often known as claretes in Spain. These juicy blends are perfect for chilling and bring a welcome mix of freshness, aromatics and the right amount of tannin.

Of course, not all reds lend themselves to being cooled. Avoid wines with too much oak, heavy extraction and high tannin, as these could become chewy and imbalanced when cold. Instead, look for wines that are whole-bunch (where the grapes are fermented as a bunch, with the stem intact), have been gently pressed or use other methods such as carbonic maceration, where grapes are fermented in a carbon dioxide-rich environment before crushing. The lower-intervention winemakers often prioritise unusual grape combinations and embrace freshness and expressive drinkability in their wines, and bottles like these can be fantastic options for food pairing, again challenging tradition by working with fish or lighter vegetable dishes.

Ultimately, this is about serving wine in a way that enhances its best qualities; about tuning in to the mood, the season and the food – and not being afraid to subvert expectations along the way.

The coolest chillable reds

• Veronica Ortega, Kinki, Bierzo (Menica, Godello, Palomino) from Vine Trail
• Domaine Bulliat, Bibine, Beaujolais (Gamay) from Modal Wines
• Domaine Sant Armettu, Rosumarinu, Corsica (Sciaccarellu) from Keeling Andrew
• Cos, Pithos Rosso, Sicily (Frappato, Nero d’Avola) from Les Caves de Pyrene
• Azul y Garanza – Naturaleza Salvaje Clarete, Navarra (Garnacha Blanca, Garnacha) from Modal Wines

Alexandra Price is head of wine at Plates restaurant in London

Do you have a question for one of the Drinks Doctors? Send your query to drinks@thecaterer.com