Ben Murphy’s 74 Charlotte Street: ‘We’re serious, but we want to be approachable’

Murphy operates in a compact kitchen, supported by five other chefs, many of whom have worked with him before. Between the six of them, they serve a 70-cover restaurant, each overseeing a section, such as larder, garnish, pastry and fish.

“When they come and do their 45 hours, they give everything. Ultimately, you’re only as strong as your team. I’m very happy and I love being here. I wouldn’t want it any other way,” he beams.

One of the highlights on the menu is the signature eggs and soldiers, inspired by Murphy’s childhood memory of dunking breadsticks into his grandma’s soft-boiled eggs. Instead of using chicken liver parfait, as he used to when the dish was a mainstay at Launceston Place, it consists of a banana squash and bacon jam base, topped with a scrambled egg mousse made from eggs blended into a liquid and aerated with a siphon gun. The dish can stand on its own, though Murphy recommends ordering bread alongside it.  

“We try to be very diverse. We want to tap into every single market”

Another best-seller is the tuna dish, which showcases bluefin tuna from Spain. The fish is cubed and dressed in ponzu, equal amounts of lemon juice and soy sauce, and sits underneath a radish jelly sheet, made from red meat radish. This is then drizzled in calamansi and coconut sauce and decorated with baby radish leaves, radish and fresh apple.

Much of the menu is inspired by the sort of food Murphy likes to eat. In fact, his peri-peri chips, dusted in a mix of smoked paprika, cayenne, sugar, salt, garlic powder, onion powder and spice seasoning, are called ‘Ben’s Chip’ simply because of his fondness for them.

There are a few more familiar favourites with a bit of a fine dining twist, such as the meringue with yogurt and olive oil, which is Murphy’s take on “a posh Eton Mess”. In winter it is served with seasonal preserved plums, since replaced with clementine.

Similarly, the ‘fish and chips’ tacos consists of cod loin from Flying Fish in Cornwall that is battered and fried until crispy and accompanied with pickled cabbage to give the dish an acidic kick. This is then put on a tortilla crisp with salsa verde, while the chip is made from an emulsion of grated potato infused with oil. “It tastes like fish and chips, but it’s a taco,” Murphy says.

The chef is keen to broaden people’s perceptions of fine dining by emphasising the accessibility of his cuisine, which channels both classical craftsmanship and refreshing informality. Part of this ease is also down to pricing: guests can order a two-course lunch for £30 or a three-course lunch for £35.

“We try to be very diverse. We want to tap into every single market. We utilise the product to its best, but you can also chill. I want to do food that reflects where I was working previously, but in a more relaxed environment,” he says. “I want everyone who comes in to feel comfortable. Like, yeah, we’re serious, but at the same time, we want to be approachable.”

74 Charlotte St, London W1T 4QH

74charlottestreet.com

From the menu

Opening bites

• Taco ‘fish & chips’ £9
• Milk bread, pumpkin seed hummus, noisette butter £9

Starters

• Tuna ceviche, citrus, apple, radish £22
• Lobster, kohlrabi, mango, lime £31
• Beef tartare, brioche, smoked mayo, egg yolk £16

Mains

• Roast English duck, beetroot, burnt orange, chicory £35
• Poached cod loin, vanilla, bisque, sea herbs £33

• Mushroom tart, wild mushroom, slow-cooked egg, sherry £24

• Doppio ravioli, butternut, black truffle, basil £25

Sides

• Ben’s Chip, ‘peri peri’ £7
• Charred hispi, chicken skin, sherry £9

Dessert

• Soufflé, Black Forest, cherry, kirsch £15

• Rhubarb, tart, hay custard, ginger £14

• Meringue, clementine, yogurt, olive oil £14
• Ice-cream trolley: cookie dough or blood orange ripple ice-cream £12