The British bun bounceback: Nostalgic bakery is back in vogue

Lambeth talk

Lawrence Watson, managing director of bakery wholesaler Kluman & Balter, agrees that traditional treats are enjoying a revival. “Bakery items that offer consumers a nostalgic taste of the past and tick the box for comfort food, are back,” he says. “Just look at classic flavours, such as strawberries and cream, cherry and almond or banana – they could all be key this year.”

Combined with this nostalgia is the inevitable requirement for items that look good on social media, such as Lambeth cakes, the elaborately piped and iced cakes named for their Anglo-American creator, Joseph Lambeth. ‘Newstalgia’ – whereby traditional recipes are updated in a sometimes quirky way, such as a Victoria sponge matched with matcha, is a big thing, according to Watson. He suggests bakers use the Kaybee Cake Mix range, which “allows bakers, caterers and manufacturers the freedom to experiment and create great tasting cakes”. There are more than 30 mixes to choose from, including crème cake and sponge mix.

A Lambeth cake. Credit: alexanderon/Shutterstock

A blend of tradition and innovation is crucial, according to Helen Bowyer, commercial director of foodservice at the Compleat Food Group, which is home to Wrights. “In a market shaped by shifting consumer habits, economic pressures and a growing appetite for nostalgic comfort, there’s a real opportunity to reintroduce these classics in ways that feel both familiar and fresh,” she says.

“The key lies in balancing the emotional pull of tradition with the excitement of innovation, through flavour, format and presentation.” As evidence, she highlights her company’s Bakewell doughnut, a hybrid of a jam doughnut and Bakewell tart, which, she says, “offers a playful twist on two British icons”.

Pidy UK’s commercial manager Fabien Levet says that with the right base products, operators can offer customers a huge variety: “Pidy’s ready-to-fill sweet pastry cases are perfect for creating classic fruit tarts, cherry bakewells and treacle tarts alike, but can also be used for more modern recipes,” he says.

While the flavours may be traditional, other elements of sweet bakery continue to evolve fast, according to Josh Lewis, desserts category lead at Nestlé Professional UK and Ireland. “Operators looking to stand out should consider reimagining these longstanding formats through a modern lens,” he says. “Smaller portions, trend-led flavours and bold, visually appealing finishes can bring these classics back into the spotlight.

“Our research has shown that afternoon has now overtaken lunch as the most popular time for sweet bakery purchases, with one in five out-of-home sweet bakery sales taking place between 2pm and 5pm, making this a key moment for innovation and menu refreshes.”

Hole in one

Some items never seem to go out of fashion. Doughnuts, for example, are a perennial favourite, but innovation is important here, too, according to Rebecca Calveley, trade marketing manager for La Lorraine Bakery Group, which includes the Panesco, Donut Worry Be Happy and La Lorraine brands.

“The Donut Worry Be Happy brand offers delicious ring doughnuts but with a twist,” she says. “The Strawjelly Jam product, for instance, offers a new take on ‘strawberries and cream’ with a strawberries and chocolate flavour combination, while the Raspberry Bliss has a berry and chocolate mix.”

Viennese pastries are also riding high, according to Bridor’s Erwan Inizan, who says that 40% of consumers are interested in trying out original pastry flavours. This summer, Bridor has expanded its collaboration with pastry chef Pierre Hermé by launching two new Viennese pastries – the Raspberry Lychee Signature and Sensation Lemon.

“They’re ideal for high-end hotels and coffee shops that wish to offer customers exceptional products that combine premium ingredients, bakery know-how and culinary innovation, whether you’re on the go or eating in,” says Inizan. “The visual and taste appeal of these new creations will help operators create a standout pastry menu, driving sales for our customers.”

Biscoff, meanwhile, has collaborated with customers to create bespoke products, such as the Biscoff SOnut at Soho Coffee. This is a cross between a croissant and doughnut, filled with Biscoff topping sauce and cream and then crowned with another drizzle of Biscoff topping sauce and Biscoff biscuits crumbs.

“I started experimenting with speculoos ingredients, but quickly found that it wasn’t delivering the Biscoff flavour,” says Mary Rotsching, product developer at Soho Coffee.

“With Biscoff being a really powerful household name, we knew that if we officially linked with the brand, then we could have something really exciting that would provide authenticity to our customers. Biscoff products bring a smile to the customer’s face, and I have yet to find anyone who doesn’t love it.” Hart and his team at Claridge’s will be hoping for an equally enthusiastic response.

Suppliers

Biscoff www.lotusbiscoff.com/en-gb

Bridor www.bridor.com/en-uk

Compleat Food Group www.compleatfood.com

Kluman and Balter www.klumanandbalter.com

La Lorraine Bakery Group www.lalorraine.com/gb-en/professional

Nestlé Professional www.nestleprofessional.co.uk

Pidy www.pidy.co.uk

Main photo: colnihko/Shutterstock